PULLULAN
Partilhar
Pullulan
Pullulan is a linear, water-soluble polysaccharide obtained biotechnologically through starch fermentation by the microorganism Aureobasidium pullulans. Widely valued in cosmeceutical formulation engineering, it stands out for its rheological properties, film-forming capacity, and biocompatibility.
Phytochemical Properties and Mechanisms of Action:
- Macroscopic Film Formation and Tensor Effect: Due to its polymeric structure, it forms a continuous, transparent, cohesive, and highly flexible film over the stratum corneum. This film exerts a mechanical cohesive force that results in a noticeable and immediate tightening (lifting) effect, temporarily smoothing the appearance of wrinkles.
- TEWL (Transepidermal Water Loss) Reduction: It acts through partial and selective occlusion. The polymeric film mimics the lipid barrier, reducing water evaporation and optimizing the intrinsic hydration levels of the epidermis.
- Antioxidant Activity: It demonstrates free-radical scavenging capacity, minimizing cellular oxidative stress and macro-damage induced by UV radiation and environmental xenobiotics.
- Micro-Relief Optimization and Light Refraction: It microscopically evens out the skin surface, reducing roughness and improving the diffuse light reflection index (soft-focus effect).
- Vectorization Synergy (Delivery System): It exhibits excellent compatibility with polymeric matrices and hydrophilic/lipophilic active ingredients (e.g., hyaluronic acid). It promotes the retention and bioavailability of co-actives in the superficial layers of the skin.
- Toxicological Profile and Sustainability: Renewable, biodegradable, non-ecotoxic, and non-comedogenic ingredient, with an absence of cutaneous irritating or sensitizing potential.
Formulation Applications:
- Used as a tightening agent, rheology modifier, and fixative in transdermal delivery systems, serums, and immediate-effect anti-aging creams.